Haute Deli, Roman Style

Rome is a Mecca of delis. They are as ubiquitous as pastry shops in Paris. I must say that this suits me well and I found the quality to be consistently good. However, there is one deli that stands out among the rest. It is Volpetti, located only a few blocks away from the Piramide Metro stop which is 2 stops past Colosseo. The address is 47 Via Marmorata and their web-site is www.volpetti.com. They are open from 8am to 2pm and then from 5pm to 8:15pm. When I got there I was early and they had not re-opened so I wandered down the street and got a scoop of pistachio gelato.....creamy pistachio goodness in a cone......yummy.  By the time I had finished, Volpetti was open and busy. When you walk in you are greeted by a handsome dark foccacia man.  He cuts, weighs and wraps your focaccia, pizza or bread. The focaccia is flatter than what we get in the states and it is seeping olive oil like sweat that stains the paper it is wrapped in immediately. There is a small pastry corner, which is just to round out the offerings with something sweet or ricotta filled. It is the meats and cheeses that take the floor here, though. At least 20 types of raw, cured and air dried hams, many different types of salami and then roast beef, pork, baked ham and game meats. There are raw meats, veal, poultry and pork and some cooked vegetables like giant balls of cooked spinach. The walls are lined with wine from all over Italy and I helped a couple of Korean guys choose a nice Amarone. One of my favorite parts of the store was the salad bar. This was a case filled with 5 different types of marinated artichokes, 3 types of olives, sundried tomatoes and fresh anchovies. Some of the artichokes were tiny, about the diameter of a nickel. They were tender and delicious and a nice contrast to the grilled ones. I also got some salami with fennel and some pecorino cheese with chilies, sort of an Italian version of pepper jack.  Bread, meat, cheese and vegetables and I am ready for a first class picnic. Of course, I have yet to mention that haute deli comes at haute prices! In the words of my ICE co-worker Gerri Sarnataro who owns a cooking school in Umbria, on the Tuscan border called Cucina della Terra, "It's worth it!" I agree with Gerri and just as she has gone out of her way to stop in at Volpetti, I recommend that all foodies should do so when visiting Rome.  You won't be disappointed!

Rome in the Rain

My first full day in Rome was a wet one indeed.  Grateful for my umbrella I set out, just as planned, and walked from my hotel near the Santa Maria Maggiore church and the central train station to the Campo di Fiori market.  It was not cold or windy, just wet.  The walk took me pass the Colliseum and part of the Forum and the Vittoriano.  Finally, I find the Campo di Fiori and am greeted on the right by a colorful array of flowers and flowering plants and on the left by a wagon loaded with monster sized pumpkins.  Too large to pick up, they were only on display with a sign for tourists warning not to touch!  There were special heirloom tomatoes, fat, round and looking a bit smooshed in the center and others that were red and green and shaped like fat bullets.  Zucchini blossoms, artichokes of all sizes, various types of chicory, wild porcini mushrooms, persimmons, figs, berries, chesnuts, beans, lettuces, and baby eggplants were all on offer.  There were a couple of butchers, a fish monger and several deli trucks, along with spices, dried fruit, dried tomatoes and olive vendors as well.  Ignored by one deli vendor, I chose the other and the kind woman gave me a taste of some cheeses and salumis.  I made my choices and also bought some olives.  Then I chose a couple of the pretty, smooshed looking tomatoes and some arugula.  If only I could find a bakery.  Bakeries were elusive to me, but my neighborhood had several good ones. 

From the Campo di Fiore I walked to the baroque Piazza Navona which is long and wide with large fountains and marble statues, Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers taking center stage.  Along the perimeter are fashionable cafes and restaurants.  I continued on the the Pantheon.  Due to the rain the center was roped off because the ceiling is open in the center.  Sitting near the altar you could look up and see the rain coming in through the center of the dome.  As the rain came in it became mist like, taking on an ethereal quality.

Ok, back out into the rain and I am making my way to the Amex office which is near the Spanish Steps.  At some point I noticed that my hand was numb from holding my umbrella and the bottoms of my pants were soaked.  Imagine how mad I was after leaving Amex.  Wet cat comes to mind.  Read below, if you haven't, because they take the bozo award for this trip.  Additionally the rates everywhere are horrible and the commissions are steep.  The rate I am getting on my Visa card is significantly better.

The Spanish steps are cool.  We ate at a restaurant near here when I was 12 and I remember the food being very good.  As I am photographing the steps, I notice that the Keats and Shelly museum is just on the right side.  My mother has stories of the museum always being closed when she has been here, so when I saw that it was open, I went in and saw the room where Keats died and appreciated all of the letters that have been saved.  It really helped to make up for the Amex annoyance.  At this point, tired and wet, I take the subway home to eat my picnic looking out onto my little courtyard and boning up on my world news with CNN.   Later that night I was awakened by an onslaught of torrential rain that sounded like a war was taking place outside with constant exploisions.  Much to my relief, whew, it was just a rainy night in Rome.

American Express - Big Time Bozos!!!

I was completely shocked and disgusted today when I discovered that American Express does not exchange their traveler's cheques fee-free anymore.  As of 7 months ago, worldwide I was told, the company changed this policy of exchanging American Express traveller's cheques without charging a fee and often at an excellent rate.  Now they charge a whopping 3% plus 3 euros for exchanging traveler's cheques or cash and to top that off, the exchange rate is not that good.  Only slightly better than the Thomas Cook, although I did not notice what fees were.  Ultimately this means that the best way to get foreign currency is to use your debit card.  You will also pay 3% and there is usually not a charge by the foreign ATM, but their may be an additional charge by your bank, however the exchange rate will be the bulk rate that Visa gets the day the transaction is processed.  Plus using your credit card is usually comes with a 3% fee, so that is better than Amex already.  The ONLY reason to have Amex traveler's cheques is in case you get robbed.  That is their only value now and I must admit, it is easier to just pack plastic! 

Hello Rome! Wed. Oct. 21, 2009

Well, we arrived more than an hour early, however we waited for over half an hour for our bags to show up at baggage claim.  My duffle was one of the first ones to show up and I grabbed it and made my way to the train that goes to Rome's central train station.  The fabulous blackberry, which I downloaded Google maps onto, shows me as a blinking blue dot and my hotel as a star.  I followed the map, blackberry in hand, and it led me straight to the Hotel Tirreno on Via di San Martino ai Monti 17 (http://www.tirreno-hotel.it/).  I stashed my bags in their storage room and went out to lunch.  I had a lovely salad with arugula, romaine, chicken, olives, corn and tomatoes with vinegar and oil.  The only weird thing at lunch was that I was charged 1 Euro for bread!  I don't really eat a lot of bread, not that I a low carb person or anything, I am just not a huge bread eater, unless it is about putting something on it.  Since no one asks you if you want bread, I made a mental note to remember to not let them serve me bread at my next meal.  Afterwards, I walked back to the hotel and used the free wi-fi in the bar/lounge/lobby until 2pm and checked in.  My room is small, but not too small and has a normal sized bathroom with a shower, toilet and bidet.  The best part of the room is the private courtyard.  It is almost as large as the room and has french doors that open onto it.  There is also a window to the courtyard from the shower.  There is a minibar, which I have emptied to make room for cheese and anything else I buy tomorrow at the Campo di Fiore market, and a TV and phone.  There is also remote controlled heating and cooling in the room, which is very effective. 

After unpacking, showering and a nap, I got up and went out to dinner at a restaurant near my hotel called La Forchetta.  The service was friendly and the food was excellent, if simple.  I had a light meal of salad and beef carpaccio with arugula and parmesan, a beer and water con gaz (sparkiling) and no bread.  Before dinner I walked around and found a busy, tiny Irish pub and a packed Chinese restaurant full of young locals and an awesome looking Swarma take-out place.  There are many pizzerias and gelaterias all centered around the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.  Most of them spill out onto the sidewalk with little tables and umbrellas.  It is a nice neighborhood full of Italians and tourists.  The area near the Central train station is packed with hotels, so the area caters to both.  No one is offended by my lack if Italian, but I was able to order dinner in Italian and am learning bits and pieces as I go. 

Well, it's half past midnight and I better get my beauty rest if I am to be bright eyed and bushy tailed in the morning.  After the Campo di Fiore market I am walking to the Piazza di Spagna.  It's a good historical walk and I want to see Rome on foot.  More tomorrow.......

Rome in the morning!

Flying to Europe usually means arriving the next morning. I arrive at 10:30am and will take the train into Rome's main train station. My hotel is nearby and I can walk. The first thing I will do after freshening up, is to have lunch.

Leaving for Italy tomorrow!

Hertz has an awesome deal that provides a free cell phone with your European rental.  You just have to pay for calls.  When I contacted Cellhire, the Hertz partner, they offered me a blackberry with unlimited email and internet for only $29 a week.  I couldn't be happier!  The blackberry arrived all set-up and with excellent instructions and the appropriate plug adapter for the Italian outlets.  I was given an email address and a UK phone number.  It is easy to use and the google maps are readable, despite the small screen.  I intend to blog daily while in Italy and post photos to my web-site.  If the blogs do not publish due to tech issues, then I will post to my web-site daily, which should be no problem.  For anyone who reads this, I hope it is entertaining.

Trip planning......

Well, I have rented a car for 10 days, which I will pick up in Rome on October 25 and return at the airport in Milan on November 4th.  I will spend 4 days in Rome before that and am excited about the Roman experience.  Presently, I am considering my hotel choices in Rome and Florence.  Internet access can be tricky and expensive.  I also like a minibar so I can put my various market purchases in the refrigerator, like cheese or salami or the other half of the fabulous sandwich I may have bought earlier that day for lunch. 

As I mentioned, I will blog daily while I am in Italy.  My teaching calendar at ICE is on my web-site now through the end of the year.  That's http://www.wineandfoodphilosophy.com/ and there is also a link to this page there too.  I hope you will enjoy hearing about my travels and adventures and insights.  And of course, see you at ICE.